Stage 11: Shiprock, New Mexico -> Cortez, Colorado (44 miles)
Don’t let the miles fool you; this was one of the hardest days of the whole trip. The day started out relaxing enough as we lounged around the apartment in Shiprock all morning; Kyle and I even took some much needed naps. Today we leave the high desert and enter God’s Country (the Rocky Mountains). We are all extremely excited but also filled with a bit of trepidation; none of us really have any idea what awaits us and if our bodies & minds are up for the challenge ahead. We’re encouraged and inspired that our New Mexico host, Shiprock Nate, will be joining us for the next couple of days. Nate has touring experience in Australia & New Zealand and will be a welcome addition to our rolling caravan. As we roll out the door a killer wind blasts us right in the face and quickly tells us what is in store for the day. Over the next 4 hrs we fight against Mother Nature’s fury as we endure the most horrible headwind any of us have ever experienced. At some points the wind was blowing directly in our faces at 30-40 mph. Nate broke the wind and led the first 20 miles like a true warrior and we all battled on as the elements had their way. When we finally arrived in Cortez, Colorado we were exhausted and starving. Big Rob and his sons greeted us at their family home and we were so happy to have finally arrived. Immediately we were treated to cold refreshments, fresh fruit and Colorado hospitality. Big Rob and his wife went above and beyond by providing grilled chicken black bean burritos with all the toppings. Seriously the grill was loaded with about 30 succulent grilled chicken breast which we devoured with tenacity. Special thanks to Big Rob for really hooking it up and giving us the perfect “Welcome to Colorado Celebration”.
Stage 12: Cortez -> Lizard Head Pass (10,222′) -> Trout Lake, CO (64 miles)
Today is a big day and we all know it. Lizard Head Pass culminates with a 6% grade and tops out at over 10,200 ft. This is by far the highest elevation we’ve tasted throughout the whole adventure and Big Rob knew it last night when he fed us a mammoth protein meal well suited for a hungry caveman. We began our ascent directly out of Cortez and then proceeded to climb and climb and climb. For 50 miles the road unfurls beneath our tires and reaches closer and closer towards the heavens. Luckily most of the ascent was so subtle that you really couldn’t feel the burning too much until we reached the town of Rico. In Rico we grabbed a rest break along with some chocolate milk and microwave Chinese food. Shiprock Nate turns around in Rico and bombs down the mountain to meet up with a friend and head to Moab for the weekend. Thanks for all the pulls and comradery Nate; happy birthday too Brother. Our original trio of three is reunited as we step outside to embrace the cold and the climb ahead. The road turns skyward for the next 12 miles and snow covers the beautiful earth all around us. Kyle flies to the top like a rocket while Jeff and I pace ourselves and churn the gears. We rally together and summit in a dream of snow white ecstasy. An incredible view surrounds us in all directions. Whooohooo! We did it! At the peak of Lizard Head Pass we congratulate each other and get some new friends (cross country skier ladies from Durango) to take our photo in front of the mountains. A great sense of accomplishment pervades our senses and fills every pore in our bodies. We chill out in the snowy wilderness and soak in the views for a few minutes before dropping down the backside of the pass and heading to Trout Lake for the night. Only a few miles of descent and then we head towards the breathtaking frozen lake nestled in a semi cirque of 13,000′ snow capped peaks. Nate (a different Nate), Franny, Edwin & Molly are waiting for us outside their cabin and cheering for us as we make our arrival. We can’t help but feel like mini celebrities and greatly appreciative for such a warm welcome. Jeff & Nate are close friends from college and their friendship allowed us to all become part of an incredible experience at Trout Lake. That night we had an incredible dinner and wonderful fellowship, not to mention Franny’s unforgettable homemade chocolate chip cookies dipped in a cold glass of soy milk. Oh sweet soy milk how I’ve missed you; so happy to be around fellow granola folks who enjoy your subtle flavor. Edwin & Molly were incredibly gracious host and their home was super sleek & modern with a better view then I could have ever imagined. The huge glass windows allowed the mountains to penetrate the home and become a part of every conversation and thought. One could not help but dream of climbing them and celebrating in their strength and splendor.
Stage 13: Trout Lake -> Telluride -> Montrose, Colorado (75 miles)
Blueberry pancakes, scrambled eggs, fresh sausage, hashbrowns, granola and homemade Mennonite wheat bread; a day can start no better. So much effort and intention had been poured into this wonderful breakfast that I showed my unbridled appreciation by politely consuming incredible amounts of this precious gift. We are full and happy and ready to ride. I’ve been dreaming of visiting this mountain region for well over 10 years now. One of my best friends (Kevin aka Big O) has a house in Telluride and he has been telling me stories about this place since we were in junior high; now the day has come for me to see for myself. We say our goodbyes and climb aboard our trusty steeds for another adventure amidst the “San Juan Alps”. As soon as our tires touch pavement we soar down Lizard Head Pass like an osprey flying over the mighty Yellowstone River. Before long we begin a respectable climb and come upon a lookout point for Wilson’s Peak (a classic Colorado 14er). Jeff & I look in amazement as he recounts his heroic climb to Wilson’s summit last summer. I’m impressed and look at the massive and intimidating peak in the distance. My pulse begins to rise and I already know that my own summit bid is not so far away, but for now I bow in her glory and am content with looking upon her majesty. Maybe this summer when I return for our “14 14ers in 14 Days” Fundraiser I’ll be able to see this beautiful peak from a more intimate vantage point. Back on the bikes we continue to climb and rendezvous again with Kyle at the top. Before the death defying downhill, Jeff warns us of the super steep grade and tight turns to come. I jump out in front and bomb the descent like a heat sinking missile. Enormous mountain peaks tower over us in all directions and we are awestruck by an indescribable beauty which can only be experienced and not explained. My smile stretches to both corners of my face, pupils dilate and eyes begin to water, mouth begins to salivate and the heart begins to race as the road unfolds beneath our tires in a myriad of directions. We are sailing on a 50 mph roller coaster with no guardrails and loving every second of it. The mile signs pass by in what seems like 60 second intervals and in an infinite moment of timelessness we forget all else and soon find ourselves at the bottom of the incredible descent and looking towards the famed box canyon village of Telluride. Oh blessed day you are just beginning, where shall we go from here? First we shall soar down more beautiful canyons for the next 20 miles and then climb over another mountain pass by the name of Dallas Divide. As we begin the long ascent we stop to strip off our winter clothing and eat more chocolate chip cookies. Soon a van pulls up and asks if we need any assistance. The driver would quickly become a “Bisiklet for Haiti” legend: her name was Helga. This 79 year old German superstar has spent 3-4 months of the past 10+ years driving across the beautiful USA and has criss-crossed the continent so many times we could not keep count. She kept a cloth map of the country and knitted on her yearly voyages in various corresponding colors of yarn. Her stories were rivaled only by her independence and love of life. We could only pray to be so daring and brave at her age. Two more bikers soon pulled up and joined our rolling party. We told Helga to meet us in Ridgway on the other side of the mountain pass and made quick friends with our new biker buddies. Together the 5 of us talked and climbed to almost 9,000′ over the next 12 miles before another insane descent past Ralph Lauren’s Ranch and the face of numerous holy mountains who stood in stoicism and peace far beyond our touch in the sacred horizon. Once in Ridgway we ate cookies and a special chocolate rum bars from Germany with our new favorite wayward traveler, Helga. In time we bid our goodbyes and wished everyone well before riding towards Montrose (our destination for the night). We rode in a paceline and made quick work of the next 30 miles. Riding through the city we looked in every direction for the perfect place to relax and grab some good food. On Main Street we rolled upon the perfect spot, the Horsefly Brewery. Once there we kicked off our cycling gear and called up our local friends: Tybo, Paul P & Dr Jim. As the 6 of us celebrated life time flew by and turned from day to night. Tybo and I are good friends from “The Natural State” (Arkansas) and we became friends with Paul & Dr Jim during our cholera prevention and recon missions in Haiti during the recent epidemic. To have us all together again was quite a festive event and we celebrated accordingly. That night we rolled to the local high school and camped out in the parking lot. Can’t remember who, but either Fatty (Kyle) or Hefe (Jeff) thought they would sleep in the grass until the sprinklers went off. Haha. Great friends, great day! Dr Jim thanks again for dinner Brother, can’t wait to see you again.
Stage 14: Montrose -> Gunnison, Colorado (66 miles)
I have been a McDonald’s hater for several years now and have not stepped foot in one of their fast food artery clogging restaurants since I can remember. So you can imagine my excitement when I discovered that was where we were having breakfast. But I have to tell you I was pleasantly surprised. Their “Big Breakfast” was delish and you can’t beat the $1 sausage breakfast burrito for the price. We thought them such a bargain we purchased 6 during our multiple course breakfast and beyond feast. The extra calories would come in very handy as we crossed two major mountain passes and had another rock star day of climbing in the Rockies. On our first big ascent of the day who do you think would pass us on the road? Why none other than our beloved German Helga. We met at the top of the pass and exchanged more stories and contact information. She was heading to Mississippi to have a movie made about her and I have a sneaking suspicion that our paths will cross again. After our second mountain pass of the day we stagger into a local gas station a bit exhausted. We sit in front of a broken fireplace and chow down on breakfast burritos before learning from the station attendant that we’re the 1st cross country bikers of the season! That evening we pulled in the fun college town of Gunnison, Colorado and talked the local Pizza Hut manager into giving us $6 deep dish pan pizzas. We each devoured one for ourselves and I finally got to try cottage cheese on pizza (great combination for all you eclectic food mixers out there). After the Pizza Hut invasion we waddled to our bikes and rolled over to Western State University and took advantage of their library to catch up on some emails, facebook, blogs, etc… Paul P from Denver catches up to us and we all decide to camp out at the college for the night (Paul in his car and your beloved trio of Fatty, Hefe and myself in our tent on the Colorado Trail which cuts right through WSU’s campus). We kept hearing some kickin’ rap music so Paul and I decided to walk over and check out what all the commotion was about. Once we got there I had no choice but to let the musical vibrations penetrate my soul and do a little dancing as the rain drizzled in waves overhead. Several of the local college girls were dancing around and having a great time as well. The rappers got psyched when we all started dancing together right in front of the stage. What a great way to cap off another great day in Colorado. Big thanks to my main man: Tyler for camping out with us and buying us a huge Micky D’s breakfast. Keep that extra bedroom open for me in case I wind up doing residency in Grand Junction.
Stage 15: Gunnison ~> Monarch Pass (11,312′) ~> Nathrop, Colorado (75 miles)
Rain fell throughout the night but we stayed cozy and warm nestled inside our little tent along the Colorado Trail. Somehow my air mattress completely deflated so I was a bit sore from sleeping directly on the ground. I really shouldn’t complain though, Kyle sleeps without an air mattress every night so I just need to get more hardcore. Since we basically camped out on campus at WSU (Western State University) it was an easy choice to meander over to the local cafeteria and eat with the college students. The experience took me back a few years to my undergrad days at the University of Arkansas and allowed one to reminisce about the relatively carefree days of college. The college cafeteria was modern, sleek and full of delicious morning delights. After a feast of omelets, french toast, biscuits & gravy, yogurt, fruit, granola and cereals of every variety we were ready to start our day. Oh yeah, I almost forgot… Before we could begin biking we needed to return a phone call from President Clinton’s office (yes that President Clinton). Apparently President Clinton had read an article in the Associated Press about Kyle and our “Bisiklet for Haiti” Fundraising Tour. One of President Clinton’s assistants had been trying to track us down so that President Clinton could offer his congratulations and thanks to Kyle and potentially make a donation from his personal charity aka Clinton Foundation. We think the Pres tried to call several times but we spent so much time in the mountains and out of phone reception range that several missed calls from an unknown number was all we ever received. Maybe President Clinton will read this and try again, you never know which direction life is going to flow so it would not surprise me if this humble blog found its way to his desk one day. Now back to riding… This day was going to be epic and we knew it. Our biggest climb of the entire 3,000 cross country tour was happening in a few hours and we were all a bit nervous about the crossing the Continental Divide via the infamous 11,312′ Monarch Pass. I drove over this same mountain pass in a car once before and thought it was intense then, my mind had no frame of reference for how this monster of a mountain could be overcome with leg power alone. Fortunately for us, Paul P from Denver had camped out with us the night before and volunteered to take our gear to the top of the mountain in his car. He would then ride towards us with his bike and make our summit bid a 4 man effort. As we depart the friendly WSU campus our wheels go down and game faces on. The ride starts mildly enough with a low grade steady climb and a nice tailwind. We pass a pair of girls touring to Moab and meet up with Paul P soon thereafter. The four of us ride in unison and wheel up to a little gas station in the tiny town of Sargents, Colorado. A nice old man inside tells us we are 9 miles and 3,000 ft elevation from the apex of the great mountain ahead. Good thing we put on our big boy chamois today because we are going to need every ounce of strength we have to pull off this cycling feat of heroic proportions. Kyle attacks the mountain with vigor and disappears into the horizon, he will not to be seen again until we all reach the top. Jeff, Paul and myself begin at a more leisurely pace and chit chat as we pull ourselves against gravity. The grade is steep and the air cools as we climb higher and higher into the alpine wonderland. Halfway up we stop for a moment to soak in an out of this world view, take some photos and celebrate in the ecstasy of life with a brief snack. Back on the bikes and the road turns skyward. I shift back and forth with my gears trying to find the perfect climbing combination, but there will be no comfort here. Lactic acid shall fill the quads from an unquenchable fountain of tender pain until we complete our mission at hand and reach the summit. After 1 ½ hours of spin, breathe, spin, breathe we crest over Monarch Crest and have conquered our greatest challenge thus far. We yell for Fatty and he comes out of hiding from the porta-potty. Apparently he’d beaten us to the peak by about 20 minutes and was getting very cold so he sought warmth in the only shelter around (hence hanging out in the porta-john 
. We high five, fist pump and look out upon the ever stretching landscape below like eagles from their perch. Next we savored the reward of our hard work by dive bombing down the backside of Monarch Pass with exceptional speeds and exquisite expertise. Like an artist we carved the corners of the road at 40 mph for the next 12 miles. Ride with us by watching the headcam video at http://www.facebook.com/?tid=1336453547297&sk=messages#!/video/video.php?v=10100757012377944. After the fastest & longest descent of our lives we stopped in Poncha Springs and ate gummi bears as we admired the views of Mt Shavano and Tabegauche Peak (a pair of classic Colorado 14ers). Tired and happy we made our way North to Nathrop. A fierce crosswind roared up and attempted to push our bikes over sideways but we trudged on. Eventually we made it to the home of Mark & Barb Warner (our family for the evening). They welcomed us with open arms and prepared a feast of chicken, meatloaf, wheat rolls, mashed potatoes and even a fresh salad. Their fellowship was fantastic and their hospitality much appreciated. I went to sleep early that night at about 9 o’clock and slept in peace and harmony.
Stage 16: Nathrop -> Manitou Springs, Colorado (91 miles)
I wake up in the early morning hours with the urge to use the restroom but something is not quite right. I try to stand but fall back down in bed again. I’m too dizzy to walk unaided so I grab the wall for help. As I fall back to sleep my head is still spinning but I feel alright. I would have thought ill efforts from the altitude but no headache and we’ve been here a week. Back to sleep I go and wake up again in a few hours; this time I feel markedly improved and can walk better than a two year old. Not really sure what that weird dizzy spell was all about but I’m guessing dehydration with a smidgen of exhaustion. It’s 5:30 in the am and my dad and brother (Richard Bell & Jeff Lovelady) have been driving all night long to meet us in Colorado and join the adventure. I call their cell phones and discover that they had just arrived in Nathrop 45 minutes earlier and were sleeping in the van at the fire station about 2 blocks from the house we were staying. I throw on my vest and walk their direction with a bowl of cereal in hand. The brisk mountain air is displaying a morning lightshow with brilliant hues of orange and blue as the Collegiate Peaks look on with approval. Walking towards the van I’m awestruck at the sheer size and magnificence of Mt Princeton in the distance. My mind floods back to 3 summers ago when I made my life altering 57 day Vision Quest to this area. I vividly remember spending my first night alone in the true wilderness on the Eastern shoulders of Mt Princeton at about 10,000′ and scrambling to the summit the next afternoon. That trip saved my soul and radically changed the course of my life forevermore. Here I am 3 years later on another life changing adventure, how fitting. Exiting mindscape à entering physical reality again. Reaching the van I knock on the window and startle my dad and Jeff. They’ve been snoozing and are exhausted after the 18 hr drive from Arkansas. We catch up and head back to Mark & Barb’s for coffee and breakfast. After everyone wakes up and gets some food we pack our bags in the van and are ready to fly for the day unencumbered by the weight of our gear. Before we leave Mark huddles us all together and prays for our safe journey ahead. It is a touching moment and we are all happy to have shared time and space even if was ever so brief. That morning we roll by the headwaters of the Arkansas River and pedal the long ascent up the first mountain pass of the day. Towards the top the sky turns grey and snow begins to fall. It’s a light flurry and a pleasant surprise for our last mountain stage in beloved Colorado. Dad & Jeff help out with the sag wagon like professional coaches. We make quick time drafting across the valley and the frigid air speeds us up as we hope to outrun the frozen temps. We’re so grateful to Keith at Mountain Hardware (www.mountainhardware.com) for sending us all the promo gear, the warm gloves and skull caps were much needed that day. Before long we’re cresting Wilkerson Pass and then it happens…. Screeeeeeee I hear the tires skidding across the pavement! Looking over my shoulder I see Jeff fishtailing his bike all over the road. The back end is dancing and he’s trying to keep the bike from wiping out and smashing into the tarmac below. In a few seconds the bike is at a standstill and Jeff is in shock and awe. As he changed gears his rear derailer jumped in the the wheel and caused a big commotion by stopping the rapidly spinning wheel on a dime. This forced the bike to swerve like a drunken pirate and almost caused a major tragedy. Thanks to some expert handling skills a crisis was averted. It looked like Jeff was done for the day, but then came the saggin wagon to the rescue. Dad gave Jeff his bike for the day and it was on again like Donkey Kong. We rocked out the big downhill and met up with Kyle at the next pit stop. After recounting the tale numerous times and making many jokes we all headed towards our destination of Manitou Springs. Along the way we would encounter another mountain pass, more snow and some really cool hale which bounced and danced across the road as it came down in waves. After Woodland Park we had a perfectly fitting 15 mile downhill into Manitou to finish out the day. Thank God we didn’t have to climb that thing we thought and happily rolled into the parking lot of the Comfort Inn. Tonight we celebrate traversing the great Rocky Mountains of Colorado and tomorrow we have our first rest day of the entire trip. We head to the hotel hot tub to soak our weary bodies and all go out to eat that night at a great little Mexican restaurant. Watch a little hockey to finish out the night and another wonderful day has come and gone.
Rest Day in Manitou Springs
Ahhh, our first day of rest since this crazy and incredible journey began 17 days ago. Already we’ve traveled almost 1,500 miles and are almost halfway through our cross country fundraising bike tour. Kyle, Jeff and I are happy to get off our seats and use our legs for walking again. Dad and I even take a hike up the foothills of Pike’s Peak and soak in some true father-son time. It is such a blessing when your father is also one of your best friends. We always have great conversations about a variety of topics ranging from religion to life to love, etc… Ironic but I’m not so sure those 3 examples aren’t truly the same thing just wearing a different set of clothes. So nice to rest, we should definitely do this again sometime. Tomorrow we head East across the windswept plains of Eastern Colorado and Kansas. Little did we know the hardest part of the journey was about to begin…